One of the first projects we have to undertake before the build can progress is to build a new workshop. Basically we need a workshop for tools and accessories and additional storage for the various materials we’re going to need over the coming weeks and months for the new build.
Initially we looked at buying an off the shelf shed/garage but for the size we wanted the best price we could find was just under £2,000! and that’s without foundations or any insulation, essentially just your basic shed in fact.
Tommy Walsh built his own workshop out of timber frame so we thought we might go for a similar build. The cost of all the materials came in at just under £1,400 and this included 150mill of insulation, a solid floor a pitched roof and in all likeliness would be made from longer lasting materials.
John is looking to post some plans in the future for anyone thinking of building their own workshop. If you’d like details please drop your email details to ruralgardeners@gmail.com and we’ll let you know just as soon as they are available.
Foundations
The first part of the project are the foundations on which we could build the main the timber frame construction. Start by building a frame from 6″ x 1″ shutter boards. Your builders merchant can help you with that one. When working out your sizes add an extra six inches to the actual size to be on the safe side as you don’t want your building sitting exactly on the edge of the base or it may crack the edge of the base over time. I use 2″x2″ post at each corner and half way along to fix the boards to.
Into the frame I break up about 4 inches of hardcore then on top of this I add approx 2″ layer of sharp sand. Helps to stop the hardcore from piercing the damp course. Next a layer of thick plastic sheeting to stop moisture coming up through the floor, often referred to as a damp course membrane.
Onto this I laid about 3 inches of concrete mixed at a ratio of 3 parts ballast, 1 part sharp sand and 1 part cement. When you have the cement in spade it flat and tamp (basically flattening and removing the air) until it’s nice and level. I find the easiest way is to take a long length of four by two timber long enough to stretch across the width of the base. Then I drag the timber across the foundation frame in a backwards and forward sawing motion. Eventually the concrete will find a level. If you have holes or pockets throw some more concrete mix in and tamp again. Keep checking until you have a smooth surface. Put the work in now and it will pay dividends later when you start the timber frame.
I chose to build the foundation walls using concrete blocks, which provide a level base for the timber frame to fixed to. As soon as the blocks had gone off nice and hard I laid a 4 x 2 timber plate all the way around the perimeter and fixed using heavy duty screws and plugs.
This pic is from a later project where I used bricks instead of concrete blocks but it shows the sole plate quite nicely.
Timber frame construction
Each section of the workshop was constructed using 4″ x 2″ pressure treated timbers and fixed to the timber plate using 3.5 inch screws. I’ve found the easiest way to construct the frame is to lay each section (wall) out on the lawn and build it first. Cut everything square and to size and you won’t go far wrong.
When you have each of the walls built fix them to the sole plate with a couple of screws while you check everything is nice and level in the corners. Quick tip … make sure you have a long spirit level as your standard DIY spirit level won’t cut it I’m afraid. Employ the help of a friend or family member to hold the corners together while you drill screw and fix. I used 3″ decking screws which worked just fine but depending on the situation you might want to use bolts.
Roof
Next came the roof which was also constructed from 4″ x 2″ pressure treated timber, which is actually much easier than you think. Tommy Walsh built a full size template from a sheet of OSB plywood which if this is your first build is probably worth doing. Rather than go into too much detail here take a look at a later build here where I explain in a little more detail how to construct the roof.
Next job is to clad the roof. I used 18 mill plywood as it covers really well and doesn’t take too long to put it down. You’ll need an extra pair of hands as the sheets are heavy. Alternatively you could cut them down to a smaller size I guess. Onto this I add a layer of roofing underlay finishing off with a good quality grade roofing felt.
You don’t need to use the underlay but it does add that little bit of extra integrity to the roof. Notice we left about a 10″overhang at the end of the ridge beam. This is to ensure the rainwater is kept away from the structure as much as is reasonable.
Interior
The inside is clad with OSB board which is much cheaper than plywood and works fine and as it’s inside the building I wasn’t worrying too much about the finish. I know I wanted wood on the inside as I wanted to hang my tools anywhere without having to worry about finding the studs.
I think you’ll agree it’s starting to come together quite nicely!
In part 2 we’ll look at adding some insulation and finishing off the build.
Best wishes,
John & Tania
Part 2 – How to Build a Workshop
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Hi,
I am planning on trying to build a workshop this year, i was wondering if you would be able to help me out with any plans for the timber framing and how to build the roof trusses? I know that you said that you followed Tommy Walsh’s advice but i have been unable to find any detailed plans.
Many thanks in advance!
Dave
Hi David.
Sorry but we don’t actually have any plans to hand as I designed the shed around The Tommy Walsh model pretty much in my head and from a few hastily put together sketches.
A few people have contacted me lately about the same thing so I plan to put pen to paper in the near future and offer a set of plans on the TRG site.
In the mean time if you need help planning your workshop feel free to drop me a note to ruralgardeners@gmail.com.
Regards,
John.
Hi. I see there is a damp proof course between the concrete blocks and the timber plate. When fixing the timber plate did you puncture the DPC with the fixing screws? I’m looking for ways of fixing my timber plate to the blocks and to avoid damage to the DPC. Any ideas very welcome? I’m wondering if a DPC is that necessary given that the slab has one and the blocks are pretty dense.
Regards,
Rick
Hi Richard
You can fix the plate with metal straps that you can get from the builders merchant. Essentially you fix with screws to the timber plate and then drill, plug and screw to the inside face of brick or block base.
Fixing the plate to the top of the brick or blocks with screws does result in puncturing the damp course but I’ve had no problems with it as yet. Five years on and I don’t think I’ve ever had water permiate above the blocks. As you say I think the blocks are too dense and the concrete slab already has a damp course.
Let me know if you need anything ele.
Cheers.
John.
looks as though your building is over 2.5m high and closer than 2m to the neighbours fence. Did you need to get planning permission for this? I am looking to do something similar in the near future.
Hi Mat
Not sure if the rules are the same in every county so worth checking with your local authority first though. We are in Hampshire and for Outbuildings and or garages we are allowed a maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of four metres. The workshop is well within the height allowed at 2.6m high at the highest point.
The distance from my neighbour is a valid point but I agreed the build with them before starting. If in doubt build it at least 2m from the boundary as we have with the new workshop.
Hope this helps … and give us a shout of you need anything else.
[…] opted for option 3 as we already have a sizeable timber structure which we built back in 2008 as a general store for our self build. Its large enough and pretty solid. With a little tweaking to the design it will make a great […]
Do you have plans for the work shop would like to do one
How did you make it so the wood sticks to the brick ?
Drilled and screwed.
Thanks.
TRG
Hi, great guide – thanks. Can I ask what you did about the soffits when you insulated this? It looks like there would be a gap between the top of the side walls and the underside of the OSB under the roofing felt?
Hi Richard
I finished them off with a narrow piece of plywood at right angles to the wall like a traditional soffit.
Thanks
J.
Hi there, am hoping to do something similar in my garden but haven’t attempted anything like this before. Have a couple of questions if you have the time.
In the foundation section you say you start by making a frame with a 6″ wide planking, but then go on to say that you put 4″ of harcore, 2″ of sand and then 3″ of concrete, how does that work? Do you dig deeper than the frame? Does it need to be compacted?
Could you give any more detail in how you attached the roof trusses at the eaves?
Thanks!
Yes .. that was an error on my part. I actually removed around 3″ of top soil before adding the hardcore. I did compact the base as I went but only with an old 4×4 fence post I had lying around.
The roof trusses were cut to fit the 30 degree pitch of the roof and skew nailed to the top wall plates.
Let me know if you need any more info.
TRG.
Hello TRG.
Firstly – a great guide – well done on being so thorough!
I think any novice attempting to undertake a similar project can now do so with your help chap.
I wanted to ask if you used reinforcing steel (rebar) in your concrete base, and if not, then would you still consider it in future to stop the concrete from cracking down the line?
Thanks,
Khan
Thanks for the kind words Khan.
I didn’t use reinforcing steel but added nylon fibre particles to the mix … this strengthens and removes the need for reinforcing steel. Although if I did it again I’d probably add the steel by way of a belt and braces exercise. btw in the almost 8 years since it was built it hasn’t cracked anywhere.
Hope this helps.
TRG