Posts Tagged ‘Projects’

outbuilding1We’ve been spending a fair bit of time on the new nursery shop and potting shed last few weeks.

The roof is on and not looking too bad. We decided to go for a felt roof in the end as we just don’t have the budget for clay tiles as we’d hoped to. Also started cladding the outside with 6 inch feather board.

Like to have finished the cladding completely but the builders merchant didn’t have sufficient stock as apparently there is a national shortage of feather board would you believe!  At least that what he told us anyway.

Finished off the the roof construction with the rest of the 4″ x 2″ pressure treated and covered it with 11mm OSB board.

Take your time laying the OSB making sure it’s straight and true. If you’ve built the rafters with the correct spacing your OSB should sit just fine. If not then you may need to add additional rafters to support the point at which two boards meet. The point at which the two roofs meet was a bit tricky but after much bad language it finally came together.


Before the board went on we added a couple of skylights on the back of the roof. We looked at Velux but went for a lesser known brand as they were cheaper and seem to be just as good All they need is an extra coat of sealer and they’ll be as good as the Velux. (We’re not going to openly recommend a brand on the blog so if you’d like details then drop us an email and we’ll be happy to provide)

We then covered the OSB with heavy duty roofing felt.  Don’t go for the cheaper version unless you really have to or you’ll be re-roofing within 5 years.

I mention heavy duty as there are several grades of roofing felt. The best product for the price is traditional green mineral felt … certainly worth paying the extra for something that will last.

Roofing felt comes in large rolls which are heavy so make sure you have some help around when it’s delivered.

If you plan to store it for a while then keep it out of the sun and also stand the rolls on end. They usually have a wrapper with installation instructions with directions on which end to stand it up. Although it’s a tough material treat it with care or you could damage it, or worse puncture it.

You’ll see from the photos that the felt extends beyond the edge of the board by about 4 inches on all sides.

This serves two purpose:

  1. To run any rain water into the guttering.
  2. To allow for tucking the felt under the end facia boards on the gable ends.


If you planning to put roofing felt onto any building my advice is don’t lay it on a hot day. On the day we laid ours it was baking and as we started handling the felt it began to soften which wasn’t a problem at first ….  until we (rather John) came to stand on it!  Foot prints started to appear in the felt which wasn’t exactly the look we were after. :(

So best wait for a cloudy day before fitting roofing felt.

Oh and another tip … don’t lay your felt out on your lawn in the sun when you’re cutting it too length, or it will scorch the grass. Best wait for a day when the sun isn’t so strong.

We’re quite pleased with the results although we still hanker for clay tiles, but hey maybe in the future eh.

Last job for this session was to cut and fix the facias on the front and back of the building. I usually use at least 6 inch boards but as the eaves are fairly low we had to change to 4 inch instead.

We used 6 inch boards on the gable ends but it meant trimming the lower edge back slightly so it finished neatly with the facias. Turned out ok in the end.



Next phase is to finish off the cladding (when it arrives) and put up the guttering ready to collect all that lovely rain water!

My son Tom  is starting the first fix this weekend which should see the cabling go in after which we can look at insulation and closing off the inside of the main building also with OSB board.


Seems to be taking an age … but should be well worth it in the end. Can’t wait to welcome visitors to our little venture.

We’ll post more as the build progresses, but do drop us a note if you’d like any more information about the methods used.

Best wishes,

John And Tania The Rural Gardeners


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Two Year Old Black Walnut Seedlings

This is the second in our series about how you can set up your own independent plant nursery from your back garden.

Hopefully Part 1 will have started you thinking that this might be something you could consider starting either as a hobby or perhaps as an alternative source of income.

Today we’re going to share what you need to get started the kind of equipment you need to get you started on the road to owning your own little plant nursery.

What do I need to get started?

You’re going to need plants for a start … and lots of them!

When John and I started on this road in 2010 we already had a few of the older varieties of shrubs and perennials in the garden that we knew grew well in our chalky soil and we were  confident the varieties are not covered under the PBR schemes which was confirmed after a little research on the web.


2 Year Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) plants growing away in the nursery bed

You’re also going to need pots and plenty of them.

When we started we grand ideas like selling our plants in clay pots but it just wasn’t practical. Wonderful to look at but blooming heavy and way too expensive. Customers just won’t pay a premium for a plant in a clay pot.

As a rule we use the following sizes in the nursery.

1. Three (3) inch for one year old rooted softwood cuttings.
2. Five (5) inch for two year old mature plants.

We also occasionally use a 7 inch pot if we’re lifting mature shrubs from the ground but we find most of our customers prefer to buy the 5 inch pots.

Of course there is nothing to stop you using any size pot but if you keep them consistent they look uniform and actually it looks more professional. Appreciate we’re not building another garden centre here but these little refinements do make a difference.

You also get used to how big the plants grow and how much compost you need to fill a single pot. Very useful for when it comes to working out your production costs.

Do I need any specialist equipment?

You can get started with very little which is what’s so great about this little business.

If you plan to grow your own stock from taking softwood or semi hardwood cuttings you’re going to need:

  • Rooting hormone
  • Plant labels
  • Sharp sand or potting compost to plant the cuttings in.
  • Patience

Apart from a hose and a source of water that’s pretty much everything we had when we started and in our first year we raised around 50 young plants for a total investment of around £15. Small numbers yes, but from acorns oaks do grow as they say.

Over the last few years we’ve collected pots of all sizes, made a potting bench out of single sheet of OSB and invested in a modest misting setup. You don’t have to mist to be successful with cuttings but it does significantly increase your chances of success.

Of course if you plan to buy and sell stock then there is little need for anything other than somewhere to store the plants and means of getting them to your market.

You’re going to need to invest in a little marketing to get the message out there but we’ll cover that in more detail in the next post.

Shall I grow my own or buy in my plants?
Well that’s really a decision only you can make. Buying plants in gives you instant stock that you can simply mark up and sell on for a profit. All I would say is that does reduce your margins by quite a lot but at the same time you don’t have the added hassle of growing the plants and all the challenges that presents.

We like to grow our plants as we think it’s half the fun and it means we can market our plants as ‘locally grown on Hampshire chalk’ which is a point of difference for our business. (High tech business speak) :)

Whenever someone comes to visit the nursery they see healthy plants growing in our chalky Hampshire soil, which means they leave confident what they’re buying will survive in their own garden.

Propagating your own plants from seed, softwood cuttings or division we believe is more profitable than buying in stock to sell, and it’s all consuming which means you’re going to need to spend a fair amount of time on your new venture if you plan to grow your own.

How much space do I need to get started?
You need very little space to get started. It’s all relative to what you want to achieve really. You can grow plenty of plants in a square metre but if you need more space you could always expand upwards!

That’s the great thing about growing plants for profit … it ‘scales’ really easily.

Here’s another idea if you’re stuck for space. How about asking a friend or neighbour if you could use part of their garden. You could offer them an incentive to come in with you for a share of the profits. :)

“Yes but don’t you live in the country and have plenty of space?”

We received an email from a reader recently who asked if it was possible to start your own back garden nursery in the middle of a town. We went on to tell her about a guy we know who lives in a first floor flat in central London and runs a plant business from the back of his truck.

Basically he picks up the plants from a grower in the morning and delivers to his clients houses in the afternoon. Any left over stock goes to the local charity which gets his name out in the local community.

Where this is a will there is a way … as they say!

 How much should I charge for my plants?

Basically as much as you think your market will stand. Having said that you have to be sensible with your pricing if you’re to compete. One way to compete on price is too propagate your own as it means you not only have  great looking plants but you can also offer those plants at a great price as it’s easier to make a margin. Also ‘home grown’ is a great differentiator.

How To Start A Plant Nursery With The Rural Gardeners

Grow healthy plants and they sell themselves

Where possible we try to keep our prices at below £5.00 for a 2 year old plant and £6.95 for anything we feel will sell for that price. These tend to be 2-3 year old stock.

Where can I sell my plants?

Farmers markets are great as they usually come with customers but we choose not to sell at farmers markets as the customers tend to want to barter which I don’t have time for to be honest.

Another possible outlet for your plants is Ebay. Great thing about Ebay is it comes with millions of customers. Appreciate they’re not all looking to buy your plants but a fair chunk of them might be.

The only issue I have with eBay is it tends to attract customers with deep pockets. But hey that suits us as we’re selling our plants for under a fiver anyway.

We’re not going to spend too much time talking about eBay as there’s loads of really good stuff out there already. Just watch for the charges and always work out how much it ACTUALLY costs you to get your plants to the customer. Then factor those numbers into your pricing.

If you’re happy having customers come to your house you could always hold a plant sale from your back door, or from your garden. But watch this one as you’ll likely have to organise public liability insurance just in case someone has an accident on your property.

If you know someone who is a whizz with computers you could always start your own web site selling plants and all things gardening. It’s actually easier than you think to get started but you will have to either license the software which is typically costs around £15 – £20 a month. Alternatively you could get someone to build you a site and use PayPal as the payment gateway.

Loads of really good information out there on how to set up your own shop online.

How do I get the message out there that I’m open for business?

That will be the subject of our next post.

We’ll also take a closer look at our set up and share some ideas around how you can get your nursery off to a successful start. We’ll also share some ideas on how you make this work for you all year round as the plant selling season is fairly short and you’re going to need something to keep your business active over the winter months.

Hope you found this useful but as always any questions leave a comment or drop us an email to

Best wishes


John And Tania The Rural Gardeners

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How To Build Your Own Out Building

Managed to get a fair bit done in the last week. Feels like we’re making real progress with the new plant shop and potting shed for the nursery.

We took advantage of the long Easter break and cracked on with building the workshop.

I can see us using it for all sorts of things but primarily it will be central to the plant nursery. We really are so blessed to have such a lovely space for the nursery.

I’ve purposely designed the building as an L Shape to offer some protection against the north easterly winds that can whistle across the neighbour’s fields in the winter time, but the position and orientation is also intentional to take advantage of the sun. Essentially it rises from the left of the building and passes right across the front. Perfect for capturing the suns energy.

L Shaped Plan

The left side will be the general workspace come plant store, come prep area and the right side of the building will be open at the front and to the right. As the right side faces south the sunshine streams in pretty much all day.

In fact this whole area to the front of the building is a sun trap and is crying out for a BBQ. There are some left over bricks which we’ll likely recycle for a little BBQ.

As you can see from the pics the build is mainly timber frame construction sitting on a two course plinth of house bricks, which are mainly for aesthetic reasons.

I have quite strong views when it comes to the appearance of buildings and more specifically our responsibility to the surrounding landscape. A view is not just the domain of the originator but something that is shared with the rest of the population and so it’s our responsibility to create something that sits well on the landscape.

Timber frame construction is simpler than it looks and just requires plenty of patience and a large helping of common sense.

Golden rule – Build it straight and true and you will always enjoy the reward of a job well done for years to come.

The wall sections went up ok, made from 4″ x 2″ lengths of treated timber cut to size and held together with 3″ screws. The reason I use screws rather than nails is in the event I’ve make a mistake I can easily take it apart and fix the problem.  When the building is finished I’ll go back and strengthen the joints with nails.

The frame is fixed to the brick plinth with 3″ screws and plugs. I think you can see from the pictures the base plate sits on a damp course membrane all the way around the building. This limits the amount of water permeating from the bricks into the wood. Not absolutely necessary but well worth doing all the same.


The eaves are 2.0m high from the concrete base and the ridge is 3.0m from the base which keeps the building within permitted development.

The ridge beam is 6″ x 2″ pressure treated and held in place by 3 sections of 4″ x 2″ timber with the middle piece cut slightly shorter to rest the ridge beam onto, while the side pieces hold it in. Hopefully the pictures explain how it came together but I do plan to offer plans in the near future.


I managed to start the roof joists but ran out of wood on Monday so will have to order some more this week.

If you’d like to know how to cut the ridge beams then read my post about building a wood store which you’ll find here.  All I would say is take your time to cut these accurately and in the same way as the wall studs position each upright every 610mm on centre. (It makes fixing 1220 wide boards much easier)

By the end the end of the weekend we’d managed to complete the main structure and start the right leg of the building. I’ll post my next project update when we’ve progressed with the roof structure.

As always any questions about this post or anything else drop us a line to and we’ll endeavour to answer.

Quick note on the plans.

Thanks to everyone for getting in touch requesting plans … Unfortunately we don’t have any at the moment as it’s all in John’s head!  Just as soon as he gets a few spare evenings we’ll pull a set of plans together and post on the blog.

Hope this was useful.

Roll on the next bank holiday weekend eh!

Thanks all.

John And Tania The Rural Gardeners




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Wahoooooo! … It’s finally finished!

I’m actually ready to share my first free gardening eBook with the world. I’m calling it my ‘Introduction To Frugal Gardening’.

Download Your Free Copy

It’s basically a collection of suggestions, strategies and money saving tips that I’ve pulled together from the last few years.

At 25 pages it’s crammed full of useful information for anyone looking to create their own garden paradise, without spending a small fortune along the way!

It did take a fair bit of work to prepare and may not be perfect first time round, but I would really value any feedback you’re prepared to offer as I want to write more stuff so others may benefit.

If you’d prefer not to then that also fine, in which case please enjoy the  content with our best wishes.

Oh, and we’ve also been recording a few videos over the weekend you might be interested in.

Part 1 explains in some detail how to take softwood cuttings, and how you improve your chances of success.

Part 2 introduces the idea of a sand box.


Hope you enjoy the read!

Best wishes,


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We had some beautiful weather over the weekend in Hampshire which was just perfect as we managed to just about finish our new wood store. It was one of those gorgeous November days, crisp frosty mornings followed by glorious sunshine in the afternoon.

Living on the edge of Salisbury plain we tend to miss the worst of the bad weather to be honest, which I understand is why the military moved here around 30 years ago.

I went to the builders merchants first thing Saturday morning to pick up an extra roll of roofing felt so we were able to finish the roof and move on to the closing in the frame.

Building the walls of the wood store

The walls are built using a combination of 6″ and 4″ treated weather boards pinned to the wall plate and a kicker board fixed between the support posts.

First job was to mark the posts for the kicker board remembering to leave approximately a 12″ gap at the bottom for air to circulate through the wood pile.

The plan was for the boards to sit flush with the outside of the post so I added a packer block to the inside of each post, stepped back from the outside edge the same thickness of a single board. (Use an off cut of board to gauge the depth)

Fixing the boards

A useful tip I picked up along the way is if you’re doing this job on your own try fixing a piece of timber the length of the run that’s thicker than the kicker boards to use as a rest while you fix the vertical boards. Just remember to make sure the top of the rest is level with the top of the kicker board before you fix it.

Having fixed the kicker and set the level between the posts I measured and cut all the boards. As the timber arrived in 4.8 mtr lengths I cut three equal lengths of 1600mm board which when offered up to the frame left me with roughly a 12″ gap at the bottom.

I made a spacer out of timber so I’d have a small gap between each board and then proceeded to fix the boards.

Another tip is not to drive the nails completely in until you are absolutely sure the boards are straight and true.

Lining up the boards

Secret to fixing the boards nice and true is to make sure the first board you fix is dead straight (on the vertical) then use the spacer to fit the next board, and so on until all the boards are fixed, Occasionally I stop to check the boards are plumb using a spirit level as the smallest error will just get worse the further you progress. Also don’t be afraid to pull a board off if you’re not happy with it, after all you’re going to be looking at it for a good few years, so best make sure everything is at least straight!

I’d originally planned to only fill in two sides of the store as one faces North and gets the worsted of the North winds, while the other looks onto my neighbours garden. But I’ve decided to board out half of the third side so the back of the store will be pretty much enclosed. For now I’m using a sheet of OSB I had left over, but I will replace it with boards when I have a few more pennies.

Apart from cutting the occasional notch out for the rafters the boards went up ok. I decided to mix up the pattern using a four inch board every third or fourth board, which worked out ok.

One of the last jobs was to add some trim to the front and rear eaves to hide where the felt is tacked on. Pretty straight forward, just needed to work out the angles top and bottom, cut to length and fix to the front of the joists.

Unfortunately we ran out of boards and it was getting late before we could complete the soffits, but there’s always next weekend!

Then as if by magic…
On Sunday afternoon we had a call from a friend who lives in the next village. He’d removed a limb from a horse chestnut tree that was hanging over the main road in the village. Two hours later and four trips in the car we had a half decent pile of unseasoned wood that should be perfect for burning by next winter.

It’s not a good idea to burn fresh cut or unseasoned wood as its called as its full of water and apart from the fact that its wet it doesn’t produce much heat. Wood burns hotter the drier it is, so always a good idea to stack fresh wood for the following year.

Well, apart from the guttering that’s pretty much it!

We’re really pleased with the results and for a little effort and not a huge amount of money we have a great little wood store that should last a few years and provide us with a fantastic stock of free winter fuel.

I’d like to have a fire pit outside the front of the store to warm ourselves with when we’re busy in the garden in the winter months. I’m also planning on adding a light and maybe an electric socket in case we need to use any power tools, but that will have to wait.

So that’s the end of my mini series on building your own wood store. I hope you enjoyed what you read and found some of it useful. If you’d like more details of how the store came together please drop me a note and I’ll be glad to help.

Best wishes

Rural Gardener

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Pleased to say the weather held off most of the weekend which meant we could carry on with building the new wood store.

Basically we don’t have enough space to store any wood and wood figures quite a lot in our lives as we use it as our main source of heat so it made sense to build a wood store.

John took a days holiday on Friday which I thought with the weekend  would give us plenty of time to finish the project, but as with all my projects they just take twice as long as I thought!

Choice of materials

As the building is going to have to cope with the worst of the winter weather I’m using pressure treated timber for the main structure. I used 6 x 4 (inch) for the roof joists and 4 x 2 (inch)  for the wall plates. I decided  to sit the wall plates on edge for strength and used a combination of galvanised metal plates and 3″ all weather screws as fixings.

As the roof is going to be covered in a decent grade of roofing felt I’m using 2400mm x 1220mm OSB board, as a cheaper alternative to regular plywood.

How to cut a pitch roof with The Rural Gardener

Building the pitched roof

I should start by saying I am definitely no expert when it comes to building a pitch roof but I’ve done it once before and although it’s not a simple job, by following a few basic principles, i.e. measure twice cut once and check everything is lined up before fixing anything, it’s possible to make a half decent job.

To begin with I prepared a couple of supports for each cross rail exactly half way to support the ridge beam while the roofing joists were being cut to size.

Next I cut the ridge beam to the full length of the building (3.5m) including an extra 200m overhang for each end and fixed the beam temporarily using the two supports.  It’s really important the ridge beam is level or the joists just won’t sit right.

When it came to the joists I took a measurement from the top of the ridge beam to the top of the wall plate and then add a 250mm overhang.

I recommend marking up the opposite side of the roof separately as I find the measurements are never quite the same, despite spending ages making sure the structure is symmetrical.

Tip: I also leave an extra couple of inches on the length to eliminate the possibility of cutting it too short and gradually trim it back to fit. This way it’s never too short.

Having cut the first joist to length I offered it up to the end of the ridge beam and rested the other end on the top of the wall plate while I marked the angle at the ridge beam.

It would have been easier to simply nail the joist to the wall plate, but I wanted to cut a step into the roof joist so it would sit better on the plate and provide more surface for fixing. You can see in the picture below I’ve already removed the step and cut the joist to fit the ridge beam.

As with the ridge beam I offered the joist up to the end of the wall plate and marked out a step. With the step removed and fitting snug on the wall plate I now had a template for the the rest of the joists.

I fixed the top of the joists about 20mm below the top of the ridge beam to allow for the thickness of the OSB board

Having cut all the beams to size they were ready for fixing, but before then I had to work out the correct spacing between each of the joists.

The general rule of thumb with joists is to fix every 610 mm or just over 2 feet, and as my OSB sheets are 2400 mm x 1220 mm (8 x 4 in old money) I could go ahead and mark a pencil line on the ridge beam at 610 mm intervals knowing the boards would line up exactly with the pencil line. I also marked the ridge beam with a pencil line 20 mm from the top edge so when the roof boards are laid they sit flush with the top of the ridge beam, leaving a neat finish.

Next I fixed the first joist flush with the end of the ridge beam (front face) using 3″ all weather screws driven in from the opposite side of the beam, and then added the second joist taking care to line up the centre of the joist with my 1220 pencil mark. Then I added a third joist exactly half way between the first and second.

Another useful tip I picked up along the way is leave fixing the joists to the wall plate until you’ve laid the plywood boards on the roof. This means you can position each beam exactly with the edge of the roof boards before fixing permanently to the wall plate.

With all the joists in place and fixed nice and firm the OSB boards went on using 40 mm galvanised nails. There was about a 12 inch overhang which I cut back flush with the end of the joists.

How To Build Your Own Wood Store

Starting to look like the real thing!

Roofing Felt

When I buy roofing felt I tend to go for the thicker grade as you really do get what you pay for when it comes to roofing felt. I’ve used the standard grade before but it soon ripped off by the wind.

I measured out the roofing felt on the lawn  rather than have to man handle the entire roll on the roof  (It’s blooming heavy stuff) and cut to length including a 3-4″ overhang at both ends for tacking in,

Then laid it at the bottom of the roof line nearest the wall plate using the ridge beam as a guide to keep it parallel.

The next length was tacked 4″ over the top of the first so any rainwater simply run over the top of the join and down the roof into the gutter.

Final job was to fix it down the felt with 3/4″ clout nails and the job was done!

Unfortunately we ran out of felt by the time we got to the ridge line, so will need get buy more during the week. Should be able to finish off the felting and complete the sides and finishing touches next weekend if the weather holds, so will post the final installment next week.

Feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions about our Wood Store project .

Best wishes

Rural Gardener

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Primroses - First Sign Of Spring

Early Spring in the garden at Blackbirds is one of my most favorite times of the year and the garden is already starting to show glimpses of what’s to come.

I’ve been working in the garden all week and realised why I love this time of the year so much. It’s all the sounds,  as well as the sights that fill the garden at this time of the year that make it so special for me.

The birds are busily collecting nesting material, occasionally having a break to take a bath in the wildlife pond we made last year and the plants are beginning to wake up, albeit slowly but wake up they certainly are.

A male pheasant that visits the garden most mornings, (affectionately known as Trigger)  has started to put on the most amazing dance for the females he’s romancing at the moment.  A sure sign Spring is on the way.

I just thought I’d share some of the wonderful things that are happening in my garden, most of which are happening with little or no help from me.  I find that”s the great thing about mother nature, she’ll give you a helping hand whenever she can, just take these little beauties for example.

Viola's growing wild in the lawn

I don’t know where they came from but they are growing all over the lawn, and such a welcome site after the darker days of winter.  I’ve since found out that they are Violas and are native to the UK. They spread really easily, which doesn’t make for a perfect lawn, but I think they look pretty, so they are going to stay. :)

Daffodils are appearing everywhere. I bought a bag for £3.50 from Lidl’s (impulse buy) and planted them in late September wherever I could find a spare piece of soil.  Pleased to say they all came up and are looking superb.  They made the perfect gift for my mum this Mothers Day.

Spring Daffodils are flowering their hearts out!

One of my personal favourites of all the Spring flowers are the Primroses. They were growing everywhere when we arrived, but in the last couple of years the numbers seem to have dwindled. Not sure why but I remember my neighbour Jack saying to me when we first arrived, “best leave the first cut of the grass until they have finished flowering Tania “.  Perhaps that has something to do with it as I usually give my grass a first cut in early March.

Wild Primroses

This year I’m going to save some seeds and see if I can grow them from seed next year in a bid to return them to their former glory.

The herbaceous border has just started to kick into life, with the Lupins starting to peak through, along with the Delphiniums. Not sure of the variety, but they seem to like my chalky soil and produce the most gorgeous tall deep blue spires. Delphiniums do need additional support to stop them from being blown over by the wind. I tend to use bamboo canes and string.

Delphiniums in Spring

Delphiniums in the Spring border

Herbaceous border bursting into life at Blackbirds

The Lupins all came from a single packet of seed I sowed last year

This year I’m going a little more ‘organic’  and make my own herbaceous supports using hazel sticks gathered from the hedge. It grows  freely along one side of the plot. I like to get my supports in early so I don’t have to worry about damaging the plants when they are in full growth.

I plan to create a grid pattern, a bit like a noughts and crosses.  I’ll rope John into making a  ‘How To’ Video and upload to our YouTube channel in case anyone wants to have a go at making their own.

Such a versatile plant hazel, producing catkins in the spring, vibrant green leaves in the summer, and hazel nuts in the autumn, mainly for the local squirrel population I might add!

The ‘chucks’ have started to lay a few more eggs, clever girls!  We’re getting 2 eggs a day now which I think is down to the warmer weather we’ve had in Hampshire over the last month.

Spring Chicken hunting for worms in the Kitchen Garden

The chickens are so tame now they’re happy to help with the digging !

Last week I spotted the first of the frog spawn in the wildlife pond, which suggests the pond has started to settle down. The water is fairly clear, the oxygenators are growing well and the birds are enjoying their own private bath.

The first of the fruit trees to break bud are the Marjorie’s Seedling Plums, closely followed by the Conference Pears. Hard to imagine these buds will eventually be loaded with gorgeous ripe plums in late summer.

Plum tree bursting into life in the Orchard.

Marjorie’s Seedling Plums  – The first of the fruit trees to break bud in the Orchard

The kitchen garden is looking a bit bare with only few leeks left over from last year, but the ground is prepared and in just a few months it should be producing lots of lovely fresh vegetables.

The Cut Flower Garden I started a couple of weeks ago is almost ready for planting. I’m just waiting on a load of compost to be delivered to bring the levels back up. Just can’t believe how many stones are in the ground, and they just keep coming. Last year the local recycling yard was selling a tractor bucket full of well rotted compost for £20 and I’ve been back this year and they’re happy to supply me again for the same price. It’s excellent value for money and by far the best way to buy it.

The patio will be filled with perfume soon as the evergreen Clematis Armandiistarts to come into flower. The perfume is superb and it’s a very welcome addition in Spring, and it’s one of the few evergreen clematis.  I top dress with a sprinkling of fish blood and bone in late autumn, but I have to say this year it’s  looking a bit sorry for itself. Not sure how long they are supposed to last.

The Polytunnel is starting to come into its own now more than ever. It can be raining all it likes outside, but it’s nice and dry in the tunnel.  At this time of the year it’s is full of seeds and this year is no exception as there are cut flower seedlings everywhere in preparation for my new cut flower garden project.

The compost heap is working hard and I should have a a couple of barrow loads of home grown compost soon, just in time to give the roses a Spring mulch.

So that’s a brief round up of Spring in my garden in Hampshire and with April just around the corner there’s lots more to come!

Back soon.

Rural Gardener

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