How to make a natural support for your herbaceous perennials … A great little weekend project that took just over an hour to make.

How To Make A Support For Herbaceous Perennials

Now that the herbaceous borders are starting to grow they’re going to need supporting.  Every year I stick a few old bamboo canes in and tie them up in with string … and every year my Lupins either snap, or end up being blown over by the wind. :(

Well this year I’ve come up with something a tad more substantial that will look completely natural and will do a great job of supporting the plants. It may look a bit rough now but the plants will soon grow through and it won’t look quite so obvious … but I think it looks more natural than the shop bought ones, and I’m recycling.

I’ve made mine from hazel stems that we coppiced from our hedge at the end of last year. If you can’t get hold of hazel sticks then bamboo works just as well.

It requires virtually no DIY skills, other than drilling a few holes and fixing a few screws  … and when you’re finished you can say you made it all yourself!

Materials

You’re going to need the following:

  1. Nine (9)  lengths of hazel … preferably as straight as possible
  2. An electric drill and a thin drill bit.
  3. About a dozen screws long enough to go through one hazel stick and about half way into the other. Just make sure the screws are not too thick or you’ll likely end up splitting the wood .. the thinner the better.
  4. A screwdriver and tape measure.

Construction method

 

Basically we’re going to make a grid out of the pieces of hazel and fix them to three uprights, a bit like a three legged stool.

There is no set size for the support as it depends how big the plant is … mine are approximately 18 inches long and about 1/2 – 3/4 inch thick.  The hazel needs to be reasonably fresh as it’s more pliable and less prone to split.

Begin by cutting the 6 pieces of hazel for the the top and three slightly thicker pieces for the uprights. Although I provide sizes you can adjust the sizes to suit your need … I’m using mine for my Lupins.

Take the hazel sticks and lay them out on the ground in the grid pattern of your choice.

Hazel stems for herbaceous support

You can lay them out in any configuration you like, but the man thing is to leave enough space in between the hazel for the plants to grow through … minimum six inches should do it.

Next, drill a hole through the top piece taking care not to drill into the piece beneath, just touch the drill bit and the screw will do the rest.

Fix the top piece to the bottom making sure you position the screw as near to the middle of the piece underneath at the thickest point.  Repeat the process on all the cross pieces and you should end up with a neat (although slightly wonky looking)  natural grid pattern. :)

Supports
Next you’re going to need 3 supports much like the 3 legs on a stool. Also you’re going to need a slightly more substantial piece of hazel for the supports, not because it’s heavy or anything, but you’re going to need to drive it into the ground and you don’t want the ends to split.

You can use more uprights, but I tend to use odd numbers for this sort of thing … don’t ask me why, I just find using odd numbers in the garden looks more natural. I adopt the same principle when I’m planting out.

Decide the height of your support and cut all the uprights to this size.  A hefty pair of loppers come in handy.

The supports in the prototype are roughly 18 inches long … remembering about 6″ will be in the ground.

I used a small chopping axe to chop one end of the upright to a point … makes it much easier to drive the upright into the ground … then cut a small step (rebate) out at the opposite end of the upright on which the top will sit.

Next position the uprights around the plant you want to support and push them in at least six inches.  Position the top onto the supports and check for level. You may need to twist the uprights so the rebate is at the right angle for the top … and you may have to adjust the depth of the uprights to get the whole thing level …  it’s worth taking a bit of time over this part to get everything nice and level, or it will annoy you every time you walk past it.

herbaceous-perennial

I appreciate we’re very lucky to have access to the natural resources around us … but if you can’t get your hands on any hazel you can always make it out of bamboo … just use string instead of screws.

A great little weekend project that took just over an hour to make.

As with all the projects in our garden making this little herbaceous support was a lot of fun and cost virtually nothing to make. Yes it will probably only last a season, but next year I can do it all over again!

Now it’s your turn .. get out there this weekend and make your very own patented 100% recycled herbaceous support! :)

Now all we need are 10 more like it … better get cracking!

Enjoy your bank holiday weekend.

Very best wishes,

The Rural Gardener


How To Grow A Rose From A Cutting

It’s National Gardening week this week and to celebrate I’m planting one of last years rose cuttings!

I didn’t know how to take rose cuttings until I came across a video from a gentlemen in the US who demonstrates in the video how to take cuttings from roses and grow them on into the most fantastic roses . It’s well worth a watch if your interested in growing your own roses. (I’ve included the link at the end of the post)

I’ve had a reasonable amount of success with my rose cuttings in the past … but I have to confess this last winter 3 out of 10 didn’t make it through the winter. Not sure why but the stems turned black and they withered away. :(

Do rose cuttings need any special treatment?
Not really …. I generally plant my softwood cuttings in sharp sand as a rule, but for my rose cuttings I prepare a slightly richer mix of sharp sand, spent compost and a little bone meal. Reason for the bone meal is to provide a little sustenance for when the roots start to grow away.

Also it means they can stay in the pots longer and I don’t disturb the delicate fibrous roots until they’ve had a chance to grow nice and strong.

After that I take a few stems in June approximately 9-10 inches long and plant them around the outside of a 10″ plant pot and leave them at the back of the polytunnel. The secret is to keep them moist and spray the leaves at least 4 times a day until they show signs of growth.

How can I tell if my cuttings have roots?
I don’t use any particularly scientific methods to be honest. The tell tale signs are the stems remain green and healthy looking and the cuttings show signs of new growth … alternatively carefully turn the pot upside down and ease the contents out and examine the roots.  If the roots are bursting to get out of the pot then you know it’s time to transplant it to a bigger pot.

Here’s a picture of my small collection of rose cuttings I took last June still in their pots, in a sheltered spot outside the polytunnel. They cost me virtually nothing to produce and with any luck they should give me some lovely blooms this year.  Now how cool is that!   :)

Last Years Rose Cuttings

What potting mix should I use for my rooted cuttings?

Not sure if you can spot it from the picture…  but the compost mix I’m using is a light and free draining compost I make up myself just for potting on my cuttings. I’ve been experimenting with composts for a few years and I now feel I have a winning formula.

Do I need to protect them in any way?
Rooted cuttings are not keen on the wind, so best to keep them in a sheltered spot … at least until the worst of the weather has passed.

I plan to post another piece about rose cuttings in June so you can see exactly how I go about it, by which time I hope to have my new home made 5-star mist system installed! :)   More on that little baby a little later …

In the mean time if you’d like more information on taking softwood cuttings there are loads of really good content out there, and I’ve also written a post all about taking rosemary cuttings which you might find useful.

Now I’m off to raise a toast to National Gardening Week!

If you’d like to know more about National Gardening week you’ll find loads of information about the scheme and some of the fantastic stuff they’re up to this week at the NGW web site.

Best Wishes,

T.

By the way here is the video I refered to earlier … Rose propagation video (Just love the beard sir)


Are you gardening on chalky soil? … if so you might be interested in today’s post which is all about what plants you can plant on chalky soil.

chalky-soil

I used to think I couldn’t have the garden of my dreams if I had chalky soil.  What plants would I be able to grow ? … would they be boring and uninteresting? … would I even be able to grow any soft fruit ?

Now … after 4 years of  trial and error I’ve discovered how wrong I was to think I couldn’t have the garden of my dreams.  I’m fortunate to have created what I think is a beautiful and productive garden on what is essentially thin, weak, chalky soil.

I’ve also been able to grow a few acid loving plants along the way :) …  by adopting a slightly different strategy.

How do you know if you have chalky soil?

The soil tends to be dry and full of stones … and if you turn over the soil you can see tiny lumps of chalk on the surface.  Sound familiar? …  if so don’t worry as there are  still simply loads of wonderful plants for us to enjoy.

Typical Appearance Of Chalky Soil

Tell tale signs of chalky soil, small deposits of chalk on the surface of the soil.

When I first moved to Blackbirds I bought a  soil testing kit from the local garden center.  I followed the instructions and mixed the little tablet that came with the kit with some water … then added a sample of soil to the mixture.

After a shake the sample turned a murky dark green colour, which basically meant my soil was Alkaline.

I also took samples from other areas of the garden to see if the chalk was isolated to certain areas … but they all produced the same result. It was pretty conclusive … I would be gardening on chalk from now on.

There is a cheaper alternative to the soil testing kits. Try adding regular vinegar to a handful of soil.  If there is chalk present the soil will react by starting to fizz.

Is chalky soil bad for plants?

I guess the short answer is no …. well not all plants anyway.  The thing about chalky soil is it tends to drains really fast  which is not ideal for moisture loving plants like runner beans, broad beans, peas, or evergreens.

If you want to improve the general structure of your soil and retain more moisture then add barrow loads of compost to the soil.

I’ve never actually managed to change the PH value of my soil yet, other than maybe by a point or two, but perhaps if we continue adding compost for the next 5 – 10 years  it might eventually have an effect.

So what DOES grow well on chalky soil?

That’s an easy one to answer … I just need to wander round my garden or pull out a few pics  from the last 4 years to see  what grows well on my chalky soil.

This is by no means an exhaustive list, but these are the plants that do consistently well in my garden year after year.

  • Lavender
  • Bay
  • Thyme
  • Marjoram
  • Philadelphus
  • Ceonothus
  • Viburnum
  • Buddlia
  • Rosemary
  • Mahonia
  • Weigelia’s
  • Clematis
  • Honeysuckle
  • Hostas
  • Veronica’s
  • Penstamons
  • Hebe
  • Grape Vines 

What should I avoid growing on chalky soil?

Classic Rhododendron ... I have this gorgeous specimen  growing in a large wooden barrel filled with organic compost

Classic Rhododendron … I have this gorgeous specimen growing in a large wooden barrel filled with organic compost

Basically any plant that hates growing on or near to lime like the gorgeous Rhododendron above.

“But I want to see the gorgeous rich, dark lush growth of a Chamelia in the garden”.

Well we can  … but it is going to need an alternative strategy if they are to remain healthy and produce those amazing flowers. I plant my mine in a large 20″ pot filled with regular organic compost mixed with a sprinkling of bone meal.

You don’t need to buy expensive Ericaceous compost … instead buy the cheaper ”4 BAGS FOR THE PRICE OF 3″  deals at your local garden center …   or use your own home grown compost mixed equally with garden center bought compost.

Above all try to avoid mixing any of the existing soil from the garden with the compost! (as I did once) as  you’re simply introducing lime back in to the compost mix.  Keep it lime free is my advice and you won’t go far wrong. :)

How do I improve my chalky soil?

Chalky soil doesn’t retain compost for long unfortunately. I add loads in January and again at the end of September.  The more organic matter you can add the better.

Should I get rid of my chalky soil?

:) … if it were only that easy.

I’ve tried all sorts of methods to remove the chalk from my garden, but every year it comes back with renewed vengeance!  The best thing is to live with it and choose alkaline loving plants or alternatively build raised beds.

If you plan to make a raised bed for your shrubs and/or vegetables I’d advise making it at least 9″ inches deep so the plants are well above soil level and the roots can’t grow down into the chalky soil.

Back fill with imported top soil and compost.

Also if possible try to avoid  building the raised beds directly onto the soil.  If you have no choice then best to create a barrier between the bed and the soil using a double layer of garden membrane on the bottom.

Anything else I should know about gardening on chalk?

Yep … it’s actually not as bad as it seems and with a little ingenuity and careful selection of plants you can have a wonderful garden full of lovely plants,  as well as an abundance of fruit and veg.

My own advice if you’re gardening on chalk?

I’ve spent the last 4 years working out exactly what I can and can’t grow and I’ve devised strategies for dealing with it … but one thing is for sure, It’s enabled me to grow some beautiful plants at Blackbirds.

In summary …

  1. Accept the conditions and adapt accordingly.
  2. Grow plants that do well on chalky soil and avoid those that don’t.
  3. Grow your acid loving plants in pots and fill with regular organic compost, but avoid sinking the pots into the soil as the lime will seep into the pot.
  4. Remember the golden rule of gardening which I’ve read and heard many times …. if you want to be successful with plants provide the right conditions for the right plant in the right place.
  5. Last but definitely not least … buy yourself a blackboard for the potting shed … you’ll never be without chalk that’s for sure! :)

The weather has been good to us in Hampshire this weekend and my daughter has come to stay for a few days which is lovely.

Hope you found this post useful, if so please feel free to pass it around. :)

Have a great week!

Best wishes,

T.


I hope you don’t mind but I thought I’d share a few of my favourite pictures from last year which certainly restore my faith in this wonderful English climate.

Click the picture for a large version.

10 Pictures To Restore Your Faith In The English Weather

10 Pictures To Restore Your Faith In The English Weather

10 Pictures To Restore Your Faith In The English Weather

10 Pictures To Restore Your Faith In The English Weather

10 Pictures To Restore Your Faith In The English Weather

10 Pictures To Restore Your Faith In The English Weather

10 Pictures To Restore Your Faith In The English Weather

10 Pictures To Restore Your Faith In The English Weather

10 Pictures To Restore Your Faith In The English Weather

10 Pictures To Restore Your Faith In The English Weather

Best Wishes,

rural-gardeners


Easter in the 2013 gardening calendar is going to be exciting one for us in so many ways and if the weather is kind it’s certainly going to be a busy one!.

They’re predicting cold in most parts of the UK over the weekend so if you’re planning to head into the garden like me it looks like we’re going to need those extra layers.

Here are five jobs we’ll be doing in the garden this Easter weekend.

Job 1. Winter Prune The Grape vine, (Phoenix Vitis vinifera)

I’ve had a grape vine (Phoenix, Vitis vinifera) for 3 years and it always seems to do well, which I think is down to our thin chalky soil.

winter-prune-grape-vine

When it comes to looking after a grape vine I’ve learned over the years to treat em mean and keep em keen.  In other words don’t be afraid to prune your grape vine, unless you have a rambling vine in which case just let it do it’s own thing and thin out the growth later in the year. In my experience the harder you prune a grape vine the more it seems to want to respond.

I train mine as a cordon (I think it’s called the Guyot system) keeping the vine down to 2 main laterals which I run left and right on wires. I keep these laterals to around 10-12 buds max and keep them tied into wires using soft garden string.

winter-prune-grape-vine3

As the buds break and grow away I train them up to the wires until there are around 4 nodes or buds per stem.  I then trim the subsequent growth to a minimum of 4 bunches per stem, which ensures all the energy goes into making loads of delicious grapes and not into growing more vine.

Job 2. Put Up Support For The Rasberrys

A couple of weeks ago I transplanted my raspberry  canes into a redundant part of the veg patch in the garden. I usually plant fruit canes in January, but given the cold weather the canes are still dormant, so they should survive the move.

If you don’t want your raspberry canes falling all over the place you’ll need to provide adequate support.  Don’t skimp in this area is my advice if you want an easy life later in the summer. I’ve learnt the hard way and used all sorts of methods from a piece of string tied between bamboo canes, too individually staking each cane (yes I really did stake every single cane).

The best solution I find is to take two or three 8 foot 4 x 4 inch square posts and cement them in a hole at least 18″ deep. Not cheap I know, but it will last much longer.  Then head to the local hardware shop and buy a few screw in wire connectors and some reasonable heavy gauge wire.

raspberry-ties

Fix the connectors to the inside of each post approximately 2 feet apart and run a length of the wire through the connectors and twist the ends to make a fixing. The secret is to make sure they are nice and tight.

If you’re planning to plant a few canes (or any soft fruit bushes) then my advice is prepare a trench in advice of planting if possible.  I usually dig a trench about a spades width across and a spades depth deep. You don’t need a massive trench as raspberries take up moisture through the fibrous roots that sit just below the surface, so avoid planting them too deep. Also the roots need oxygen so bury them too deep and they are less likely to survive. Bit like us really!

Into the trench goes a barrow load of compost which I fork into the soil.  I then plant the canes until the roots are completely covered. Throw in a sprinkle of fish blood and bone around the roots and heal them in nice and firm. Finally give them a good drink and they’ll do you proud.

Job 3. Pot On Last Years Softwood Cuttings.

For the last 3 years I’ve been learning how to raise plants from cuttings with varying degrees of success. Last year was my best year yet and I’m pleased to say 99% of the cuttings I managed to root have survived (so far) through a cold winter. Always amazes me just how resilient plants really are.

It’s really easy to raise plants from cuttings and anyone that reads my blog on a regular basis will know it’s become a bit of passion of mine. Last year I even managed to sell a few plants which brought in a little extra cash into the household budget.

Softwood Cutings

These are just a few of the plants I raised in 2012 just before they were going to the customer.

You can grow plants like these from softwood cuttings

You can grow plants like these from softwood cuttings

This weekend I’ll be potting up last years cuttings into larger pots so they can grow into great little plants, just as soon as the weather warms up that is!

Job 4. Spring Clean The Wildlife Pond.

If you want your wildlife pond to look like this …

wildlife-pond-algae2

and not like this …

Spring Clean The Wildlife Pond

… then it’s going to need a Spring clean.

I’ve noticed we already have frog spawn in the pond, so probably best to collect it all up in a bucket first and return it when you’re finished.

Basically all I do in the Spring is thin out the oxygenating plants (elodium) and remove as many of the fallen leaves and decaying plants as I can.  It’s important to remove leaves from a pond or they will eventually decompose and give off noxious gasses which will discourage the wildlife from coming to the pond.

I find the best tool for the job is a Spring rake just as long as you take care not to puncture the liner! Alternatively it’s on with the wellies or waders and be prepared to get wet! :)

Job 5. Tidy Up The Herbaceous Borders.

One of the most satisfying jobs in the garden at this time of the year in my view is clearing and preparing the herbaceous borders ready for the summer ahead. Nothing too strenuous of course, just a little light pruning on the roses and removing the dead or decaying growth from last years gems. The Lupins have already started which is a sign of great things to come.

Lupins

One task I have to perform every year (and for most of the season come to that) is to remove as many of the large stones and flints that rise to surface each year. The borders seem to suffer the most as we are on chalk, on top of which is a layer of large flints and stone in this part of Hampshire. Great for trout rivers they tell me, but pain in the bum in the garden.

After I’ve cleared the beds of all debris I mulch with a good layer of well rotted garden compost. Always amazes me where it all goes, but sure enough by the end of the season it will all be consumed by the worms and other insect life and put back in to the soil. Nature is a truly wonderful thing.

Well that’s my weekend in the garden sorted.

I wonder what jobs you’re planning in the garden this Easter weekend?

Have a lovely Easter,

Best wishes,

Tania.



Plant your onion and shallot sets early on pots

It’s early March which means its time for me to plant my onions, shallots and garlic. I have tried to grow my onions from seed but haven’t had much success. I tend to grow a few rows of white onions, usually Stuttgarter and a couple of rows of red onions, along with a row of French Shallots. I’ve been cooking with them through the winter and the TV chefs are right, the flavour is superb! The variety I’m growing this year is called  Shallot Jermor. I’ll let you know how we get on with them later in the year.

Unfortunately Suttons sent me Onion Sturon instead of Stuttgarter which I’ve never grown before so not sure how they will perform.

Along with the onions I always have a go at growing a few garlic bulbs as the flavour seems so much more intense than shop bought ones.

Planting Garlic Bulbs

I start my sets and bulbs off in small pots mainly to stop the blooming birds from pulling them out of the ground, but also I find they produce a stronger root system which gets them off to a good start.

The compost is my own mix of sieved compost from last years compost heap, mixed in equal parts with vermiculite and John Innes seed compost.

No special treatment, I just press the sets in until they disappear below the surface and give them a light watering in and put them on the bench in the Polytunnel. They should start to grow away in about 10 days.

And then towards the end of August (with a little help from mother nature of course) they should ready for harvesting.

Onions drying in the sun

Some of last years crop of onions

Well it’s March 4th and the sun has been shining which makes all the difference. I’ve been moving a few plants around today along with a couple of apple trees that need to make way for a new summer house were planning for the summer, but more on that later.

I’ve also been busily planting my vegetable seeds over the weekend. I’ve planted my beets  4 seeds to a pot using my home made seed compost mix. If you’d like to find out more about making your own seed compost we made a short video at the weekend explaining all.

How to make your own seed compost video is here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLDq7ghHuDI&feature=youtu.be

Spring is in the air!   :)

Best wishes

The Rural Gardener


potting-bench-1

My Weekend Project

Yesterdays weather was just awful, we had snow in the morning and sleet and rain in the afternoon, a really messy day.  So I decided to head into the workshop and make me a portable potting bench. It’s basically a table top version of the bigger version we have in the polytunnel.

It holds enough compost to fill about 3 trays at a time, or up to 15 small pots.

The design is fairly standard  made from two identical Side Pieces, a Back and a Bottom all cut from a sheet of ply we had left over from the house build.

If you want to make your own portable potting bench you’re going to need:

  • ½” plywood
  • ½ – ¾ inch screws
  • Screw driver
  • Medium Grade Sandpaper
  • Set Square

You can make it any size you want really, but we found if you keep it to roughly 30 inches wide and 18 inches deep the bench is light enough to carry around. (See plan below)

Plans For A Potting Bench

Construction

Start by laying out the plywood on a flat surface and cut out one of the Side pieces. Then when you have the first one cut, trace an outline for the other Side piece onto the plywood.

The important thing is to make sure the cut lines are nice and square, otherwise the back and bottom won’t fit so well, so use a Carpenters square if you have one.

Take the sandpaper and smooth off the edges, or you’ll pick up some nasty splinters.

Then measure and cut the base to size and again sand off any sharp edges.

Now fix the sides to the base using some screws. You could use pins, or nails but it won’t last as long.

Position the sides and back onto a piece plywood large enough for the bottom and mark and cut to size. Screw the back to the sides and you’re done! You can also add a little handle and fix it to the back for carrying it around.

Finally give the whole thing a smooth with the sandpaper and you have a neat little portable potting bench! Whole thing took about an hour to make and have to say it looks alright and works really well at keeping the compost together.

As soon as it was finished I just couldn’t wait any longer, I just had to put it to use and plant a few seeds. I know it’s early but every year I wish I’d sown my slow growing seeds earlier so I’ve made my first sowing of Celeriac, Thyme, Leeks, Peppers and Kohl Rabi.

I plan to raise the Kohl Rabi in the polytunnel for some early crops.

My seed mix is typically 50/50 John Innes Seed Compost and Vermiculite. I use a fair bit of Vermiculite in my compost mix to avoid the seedlings from damping off.

While I had the tools out I also made a small tamper out of a scrap piece of plywood and an old cupboard handle. I sprinkle fine seeds on the top of the compost and gently firm them in with a little pressure on the tamper.

How Top It's made using 2 identical side pieces, a piece for the back, and a piece for the bottom all cut from the ply.

There you have it, a very handy little potting bench which I’m sure will get a lot more use this year!

Turning out to be quite a productive weekend after all. :)

Best wishes,

The Rural Gardener

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